自序
3年前寫完首爾後,兩人心裡都明白想著,未來若有機會出版第二本書,一定要是台北,希望能將我們心目中的台北做成一本書。
正好去年初再次收到男子製本所J.J. 的來信,問起了新書計畫,也才有了此次與時報出版合作的機會。當時疫情讓所有人都待在原地,我們也有了更多時間重新認識自己生長的這塊土地,想著今年也許就是那最好的一年,我們能將心念許久的心願實現。於是,2020 年我們調整了工作步調,在這一年裡我們發文少了,平時動態也安靜許多,因為兩人正沈溺於台北這座可愛的城市裡,無法自拔!
很高興為了籌備新書,反而讓我們有更多機會以不同視角去回味也再理解台北。新書取名《台北多謝》,其實最喜歡的唸法是以台語「TO-SIĀ」發音,也好似台語不輪轉的人說著「台北都市」,除了想謝謝這段期間給予我們幫助的所有人外,同時也想謝謝台北這塊土地,謝謝台北擁有如此包容與多元的文化,謝謝台北是如此獨一無二,如此孕育我們成為現在的我們。
台北適合生活,也適合旅行,就算從沒來過,也不需因陌生而感到害怕,古錐的台味讓人很快就能適應;走沒幾步路,就有超級便利的商店;旅店旁總有幾間道地的家常小吃;喜歡咖啡的人,咖啡店選擇多到你恨不得定居台北;還有曾被荷蘭朋友形容成未來科技的捷運,台北不只交通便捷,就算旅行預算不高,也能玩得心滿意足。
兩人當初在擬書綱時,也延伸出了台北印象與台北特輯,希望能藉由不同形式的內容,分享更多視角的台北日常生活,也希望與台北初次見面的你,能透過《台北多謝》對台北有更多了解;更希望曾與台北相識的你,能每翻一頁都將留下新的回憶。
台北多謝!謝謝你是我的家,也是我最深愛的城市,這點,我們竟然是到了長大後才深刻明白。
Eddie, Juju
混蛋老闆果汁店Hun Dan Lao Ban Juice Bar
「我要一杯不加糖的少冰混蛋汁。」騎車男子緩緩從車上下來,站到大姐前把錢給付了,很快果汁機攪拌的聲響停止了,客製的混蛋汁就做好了,男子隨即大口吸上,再滿足的離去。
已開業近40年的混蛋老闆果汁店,不是因為老闆很混蛋,而是這裡的果汁都能混著生蛋一起打,所以取名混蛋老闆果汁店。
不只能加蛋,新鮮現打的果汁也都能調整甜度與冰塊,小小果汁店懷舊門面在巷弄裡現在看來反倒特別新鮮,玻璃櫥窗整齊排滿了天然香甜色調,想再加什麼水果都能和老闆說,我想混蛋老闆果汁店儼然已是小區裡不可多得的健康飲品選擇,夏天喝是既消暑又營養。
我們喜歡坐在攤前老闆準備的小桌慢慢喝,那炎熱緩慢的時光,能回憶過往。
“Could I get a mixed-egg juice, without sugar and less ice?”
The man got off from his motorbike and walked over to the shopkeeper. Soon after he paid for his order, the sound of the blender stopped. His customised "mixed-egg" smoothie was ready. After a big slurp, he left with a satisfied look on his face.
The doors of "Hun Dan Lao Ban (Mixed-egg Boss) Juice Bar" have been open for business for nearly 40 years. It didn’t get its name because the owner is a bastard (mixed-egg in Mandarin sounds the same as ‘bastard’), instead, it's aptly named for what it sells - smoothies with raw eggs. Not only can you crack an egg into to your freshly made smoothie, but the drink can be made to order to suit your preferred sweetness and amount of ice.
There's a contrast between the glass cabinet displaying colourful and vibrant rows of fruit, and the rustic backdrop of the tiny store. Your drink can be personalised to include whatever you want, so long as the shopkeeper can make it. In the summer, the smoothies are especially popular with locals who see them as a healthy and nutritious way of staving off the summer heat.
We always like to sit on the bench in front of the stall, taking our time to enjoy the drinks. Slow summer days make for lovely memories.
以馬內利鮮魚湯Emmanuel Fish Soup
早餐想吃碗熱熱的魚湯,在台北善導寺站杭州南路一段11巷內也有,狹小巷道裡有間總是熱鬧的小攤,由家族經營的以馬內利鮮魚湯已傳至第三代共同經營,40多年來菜單從沒改過,其中鮮魚湯搭炒米粉(或炒麵)最多人點,兩種主食都想吃就點綜合。
鮮魚湯使用吳郭魚新鮮現煮,清鮮魚湯和細嫩魚肉還入了九層塔葉好鮮好香,自己都等到最後才把九層塔夾進嘴裡,讓清湯多點香氣。雖然魚刺多,但熟客們都知道吐刺時不要墊衛生紙,直接豪邁地往鐵桌上放,待會店家好清理。點綜合麵會有麵與米粉各半,炒麵是白麵咬起來扎實有味;炒米粉用的是店家請製麵廠特製的粗米粉,淋上一點油醋與辣椒,更是豐富提味。
每次來都會發現獨食的饕客,點上一碗80元的鮮魚湯,再來一份炒麵或炒米粉,幾張桌位所有人並肩擠在一塊,不消10幾分鐘的時間就將魚肉與麵條嗑完,靜靜地吃,再靜靜地離開,當桌面堆滿了魚刺代表今日又是愉快滿意的一餐。
Located at Lane 11, Section 1, Hangzhou South Road, near Shandao Temple MRT Station, the Emmanuel Fish Soup has been passed down through three generations of hardworking Taiwanese owners. As testament to their skills, their menu has remained exactly the same for more than 40 years and the locals are no stranger to the treasures that the shop outputs - a signature set meal consisting of a hearty bowl of fish soup and stir-fried vermicelli or noodles, or both.
The fish soup is comprised of a clear broth made with fresh tilapia and infused with a hint of Taiwanese basil which adds a noticeable and well-paired fragrance. The roughly chopped chunks of tilapia inside mean that you might be surprised with some fish bones - just pile these on the table as the locals do and the staff will clean them up. The stir-fried noodles have a beautiful springy texture and the slightly thicker than normal vermicelli is sourced from a local mill which has enjoyed a long history with the store. If you’re in the mood for an extra kick, spice up your noodles with a splash of vinegar and chilli oil.
When you visit the store, you might find many single eaters sitting side-by-side along the narrow rows of tables, chowing down on their food. After only 10 minutes, you’ll see customers leaving, with a satisfied smile on their faces, an empty bowl and a pile of fish bones left on the table.