優惠價: 55 折, NT$ 99 NT$ 180
Karl Lagerfeld: A Man of Risky Fashion
時尚大帝:卡爾.拉格斐
─Treva Adams
8/1
You may see him in photographs, at a fashion show, or being interviewed on television. With his shining white hair, big black sunglasses, and tailored suits, Karl Lagerfeld is difficult to miss. However, it is his creativity and willingness to push the boundaries of taste that have made Lagerfeld a fashion legend.
Born in Germany in the 1930s, Lagerfeld studied drawing and history in Paris. Through a coat design competition, he obtained a position at the major fashion house Balmain, where he learned about the fashion business. From there, he went on to design for Jean Patou, Chlo?, and Fendi.
Where Lagerfeld truly became known was at Chanel. Twelve years after Coco Chanel’s death, the design house was looked upon as out-of-date. When it offered Lagerfeld the position of head designer, his friends said that the brand would never come back. Lagerfeld accepted the challenge, though, and made changes to the elegant clothes by adding a new, edgy vibe. When some said he went too far, he replied, “Sometimes bad taste is more creative than good taste.” The results worked, and Chanel began to attract younger, more rebellious customers.
你或許會在照片上、時裝秀或電視訪談中看到這個人。他留著一頭銀白長髮、戴著大墨鏡、穿著訂製西裝,卡爾.拉格斐很難讓人不注意。然而,真正使拉格斐成為時尚界傳奇的是他的創意以及不斷挑戰品味極限的意願。
拉格斐於一九三○年代出生在德國,之後在巴黎學習作畫與歷史。透過一場大衣設計賽,他在一流的時裝設計公司「巴爾曼」謀得一職,他在那裡學到了時尚產業的運作方式。從那之後,他陸續為「尚.巴杜」、「蔻依」,以及「芬迪」設計服裝。
真正讓拉格斐打響名號的地方是香奈兒。可可.香奈兒去世十二年後,這家時裝公司被認為已成為明日黃花。當這家公司聘用拉格斐為首席設計師,他的朋友都說該品牌將難以重返榮耀。不過拉格斐接受了這個挑戰,改造了香奈兒的優雅風格,注入了嶄新、前衛的氣象。當有些人說他的設計太過火,他回應:「有時候爛品味比好品味要有創意多了。」結果方法奏效,香奈兒開始吸引較年輕、較叛逆的客戶群。
《 詳細內文請翻閱NO.104 7月號ALL+互動英語雜誌 》